2011 Grange

(raised in new American oak hogsheads for 17 months): Deep ruby. Fragrant aromas of spice- and smoke-accented dark berries and cherry pit. Chewy and focused on the palate, offering subtly sweet bitter cherry and floral pastille flavors with hints of vanilla and mocha. Fine-grained tannins give structure to the long, penetrating finish, which leaves toasty oak and licorice notes behind. While nobody should confuse this edition of Grange with the legendary bottlings of years past, it's an impressive effort for such a cold, rainy vintage. Production of this Australian icon was 50% of normal in 2011.

Only the sixth Grange to be 100% Shiraz. About half the average volume. 79% Barossa, 19% McLaren Vale, 2% Magill Estate. 17 months in 100% new American oak hogsheads with AB John. TA 6.6 g/l, pH 3.68. Shiraz is ripening earlier so that played into their hands. Intense nose. Thick and still jagged but there is lots of intensity there. Masses of tannin. Some tarriness. This is definitely in the Grange style – presumably the Cabernet just didn't get nearly ripe enough. Selection must have been particularly difficult – especially considering the sky-high price for this wine. (JR)

2011 was of course a difficult, uncharacteristically rainy vintage in South Australia and particularly Barossa, but thanks to Penfolds’ privileged position with access to some of the region’s best fruit, they have nonetheless been able to blend an impressive Grange. Still sourced mainly from Barossa Valley, there’s a good dollop of McLaren Vale fruit (21%) – a region less affected by the rains in 2011 - contributing to this vintage. Interestingly, it is the 6th vintage ever to consist of 100% Shiraz, mainly because the Cabernet Sauvignon didn't make the grade this year. (Note that no Bin 707 Cabernet Sauvignon was produced in 2011.) Deep purple colored, in typical fashion the nose of the 2011 Grange is still closed at this youthful stage with broody tar and pepper laced notes over a core of blackberries, black plums, licorice and loam. Medium to full-bodied, the palate is taut and muscular with pepper and baking spice flavors supported by firm, grainy tannins. The finish has great length, contributing a refreshing lift.