2012 Chablis Grenouilles

Tasted on two occasions, the 2012 Chablis Grand Cru Chateau Grenouilles is probably the best offering from La Chablisenne this year. It comes from 7.19 hectares (equivalent to 80% of the grand cru) of 40-year-old vines and spends 20 months in stainless steel and wooden barrels. The nose is very well-defined and harmonious with subtle white peach, citrus peel and pear-drop scents that are all quite seductive. The palate is very well-balanced with well-judged acidity. There is good weight on the mid-palate while the finish has very good weight and focus, even if it requires a few years for the oak to be fully assimilated. Very fine. Drink 2017-2027. La Chablisienne is one of Chablis’ most high-profile cooperatives and a great success story. Founded back in 1923 and still going strong, it is said that they oversee approximately one-quarter of the region’s production, around 300 individual growers. Therefore, just like Georges Duboeuf in Beaujolais or Louis Jadot in the Cote d’Or, it is important that they maintain standards irrespective of high volumes, since their size ensures that they have an ambassadorial role for Chablis, for ordinary punters perhaps seeking to broaden their horizons. In this respect, the wines should not be looked down upon given the showing here. While none of them reached the heady heights of Chablis’ most revered artisans, there was certainly a consistency across the range that when coupled with the volume produced, deserves to be applauded. Importers: Ruby Wines (MA), Opici Wines (NY), Grape Expectations (CA), Brescome Barton (CT)