2012 Pearl Clutcher
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Jeff Leve, The Wine Cellar Insider
Jeb Dunnuck, Wine Advocate
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The just bottled 2012 Chardonnay Pearl Clutcher is off the charts and up there with some of Manfred’s top whites. Coming from incredibly low yields and made from 100% Bien Nacido Chardonnay (from a variety of clones, and the first time this estate has released a 100% Chardonnay), it was aged 19 months in 92% new French oak barrels. It offers a kaleidoscope of aromas and flavors, with notions of ripe orchard and caramelized fruits, lemon curd, fresh baked bread and hints of toast soaring from the glass. Deep, concentrated and decadent, it has full-bodied richness, fabulous concentration and a massive texture that never seems heavy or cumbersome. I’d drink it over the coming 3-4 years, but it will evolve for longer. These latest releases from Sine Qua Non and Next of Kyn are at the pinnacle of wine, and it’s simply impossible to taste through these and not be blown away. While I think the star of the show at the moment is the 2010 vintage, the 2011s aren’t far behind, and the 2012s should rival them as well. In addition, to give you an idea how these wines age, don’t miss the recent 2004 retrospective on these wines that was published at eRobertParker.com. We finished the tasting with Manfred’s Next of Kyn releases, and these are the strongest set of wines yet to come out under this label. The focus here is exclusively on his estate Cumulus Vineyard planted around the estate in Oakview. Tel. (805) 649-8901; www.sinequanon.com
About the producer
The brainchild of Manfred Krankl, Sine Qua Non (commonly known as SQN) is a cult California producer whose wines are avidly collected. The winery focuses on Rhône-inspired blends, however is famously non-conformist with each release totally unique.