NV Ardberg - Kildalton (46%)
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Not an unpeated Ardbeg, but a new initiative to raise money for the Kildalton Project which supports community projects in south Islay. Smoke, but also real sweetness: hothouse peaches, mezcal, smoked oyster, sphagnum moss, a huge hit of vetiver, and coal tar. The smoke flies to the throat before fogging forward, while the sweet core (with added raspberry and cream, and mint) moves to the back. A worthwhile dram and a hugely worthwhile cause. Buy for either reason; or both.£120
Critic scores
Jim Murray, Whisky Bible
Whisky Advocate
More reviews and scores
Nose: Didn't expect that: smoke! Light, dry, ashy but also slightly under-cooked in the cask; quite an oily aroma; an unusual, fuzzy aroma of fruit that, for once, isn't citrus-based. Taste: Unusually thin first few moments on the palate and takes a while for the smoke, accompanied by the thin layer of plum jam, to make an impact. When it arrives; it stays... Finish: Now showing off... the elegance can only be admired as a little ulmo honey and lavender give a deft edge to the already gentle smoke; just a little chocolate raisin on the slightly furry finale. Balance: Youthful and lightly smoked, unlike the days when I blended the first-ever Kidalton which was middle aged and, for all intents and purposes, peat free. The most subtle of Ardbegs, which whispers its beauty, though quite audibly... 46%.
<strong>Colour</strong>: Deep gold.<br><br><strong>Aroma</strong>: Seductive, exotic bouquet. Hints of smoked apricots in syrup, salt and pepper with soft, creamy vanilla. Smoky and herbal notes of woodsmoke and fennel. Water releases pine resin, vetiver root, coriander, liquorice and a curious soapy note.<br><br><strong>Taste</strong>: The texture is soft and ‘sappy’, gently coating the tongue. An explosion of coal tar soap, aniseed, peppermint, coffee, sweet barley malt, and a lingering, aromatic smokiness.<br><br><strong>Finish</strong>: Lengthy and fresh, with menthol, and spicy. Hints of allspice, clove and bitter almonds, revealing a distant vanilla essence sweetness.
About the producer
Ardbeg is one of the most recognisable peated whiskies today. The distillery was instrumental in kickstarting the Islay revival when it reopened in the late 1990s.