2010 Chassagne Montrachet Tete du Clos

One of the larger-scaled, more opulent wines in the lineup, the 2010 Chassagne-Montrachet 1er Cru Tête du Clos wraps around the palate with serious density. As the same time, the wine is texturally quite finessed and polished. If that sounds like a bit of a contradiction, it is simply an example of the complex nature that defines Burgundy at its core. Butter, honey, spices, and rich, enveloping fruit are layered into the voluptuous finish. This an explosive style, but it works. Anticipated maturity: 2014+. Benjamin Leroux is probably best known to readers for his superb work at Comte Armand, but the wines Leroux crafts under his own micro-negociant label are equally worthy of attention. Readers may also want to check out my video interview with Leroux on our website for more on his views on current vintages. In addition to the wines listed here, I also tasted just about all the 2011 whites. Those wines are shaping up beautifully and in some cases will rival or perhaps even surpass the 2010s for their balance. If the 2010s have a weakness here, it is that they are at times a bit on the heavy side. A Becky Wasserman Selection, Le Serbet, various American importers, including: Fine Vines, IL; tel. (708) 343-6702, Cavatappi, Washington; tel. (206) 282-5226, Veritas Imports, CA; tel. (310) 205-3800, Verity Wine Partners, New York, NY; tel. (212) 683-8763

Scented and sweet and charming. Below Romaneé. Could be Morgeot. Very light soils. Very racy and transparent. Fresh and long term. (JR)