2003 Cote Rotie Les Fortis

(from the Cote Blonde; includes 10% viognier; spent 24 months in new demi-muids Deep ruby. Explosively aromatic nose reveals blackberry, ripe plum and black olive. Dense and chewy in the mouth, showing forward, open-knit dark berry and cherry flavors and very gentle tannins. This is all about exuberant fruit and appears best suited for drinking young.

Good medium ruby. Flamboyantly ripe aromas of blackberry, bacon fat, smoked meat and olive tapenade. Sweet, fat and smooth, with enticing black fruit and pepper flavors. Quite plump and full-blown, with a pH that can't be printed in a family publication. Finishes with very sweet tannins. This will drink well early and should make a perfect restaurant wine. Montez noted that he uses the lees to avoid sulfuring his wines. While he leaves the wines on their lees for a long time, he is able to keep racking to a minimum.

Moving to the reds, which were all outstanding, the 2003 Cote Rotie Fortis comes from multiple vineyards and includes a smidge of Viognier. Medium to full-bodied, elegant and fresh, it’s a classic Cote Rotie that gives up sweet and sour cherries, dried herbs, underbrush and hints gamey, bacon-like qualities on both the nose and palate. It’s drinking beautifully and should be consumed over the coming 4-5 years or so, although I’m sure it will evolve for longer. ||Winemaker Stephane Montez produced a serious lineup in 2003. All of the wines are beautifully made, have pure fruit and overall fresh, lively characters. eRobertParker.com.April, 2014