2003 Barolo Riserva
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Tasting notes
Borgogno's 2003 Barolo Riserva has developed well, but the fruit is beginning to dry out which in turn makes the formidable tannins even more incisive. Dried cherry, earthiness, smoke, tobacco, incense and orange peel are some of the many notes that are woven into the finish. The 2003 is a bit of a brute, but is a solid showing from Borgogno for this moment in time in the estate's evolution.
Critic scores
Average Score
Walter Speller, jancisrobinson.com
Antonio Galloni, Vinous
More reviews and scores
Barolo. From Liste, Cannubi, Cannubi S Lorenzo. Herbal and a little stalky, but there is some quite transparent cherry fruit underneath. Elegant, sweet and still a little embryonic. Big, big tannins. (WS)
The estate's 2003 Barolo Riserva is a wine made in the older Borgogno style, which is to say it is quite rustic, and not in the positive sense the term can be applied to some wines. The aromas and flavors are on the forward side. Worn-in leather, tobacco, licorice, tar and spices add complexity to dried cherries and red stone fruits that are already a bit faded. Some of that is a function of the year, but I sense some less than perfectly clean casks here as well.
About the producer
One of Piedmont’s oldest estates, Giacomo Borgogno & Figli, often known as just “Borgogno”, is archly traditional. Favouring long macerations and extended ageing in Slavonian cask, it is best known for its impressive Barolos, especially the prized late releases from its extensive library stock.