2006 Belair (St Emilion)

Now under full control of the Moueix family, with Christian Moueix’s son Edouard managing the estate, and their new technical director Eric Murisasco (who replaced Jean-Claude Berrouet) making the wine, I expect this property to soar starting with the 2008 and beyond. This is a great terroir that was horribly under-exploited and managed by the previous regime, and there is no reason why it cannot perform close to the level of Ausone, which is one of its neighbors. In 2006 the Moueix family did not own the estate outright, but did have some influence, and the 2006 is certainly a good effort, with notes of kirsch liqueur, crushed rock, and some subtle herbs in a medium-bodied, finesse-styled wine that should be drunk over the next 10-12 years.

Bright crimson. Very earthy distinctive nose. Juicy fruit but not at all sweet. Briary and marked acidity. Reasonably complete opulence on the nose, The first wine I have come across to taste of autumn undergrowth as well as ripe black fruits – cherries – which spread across the palate. A slow burner? Some good fresh acidity but a little bit of green astringency on the finish too. Very dry end. A bit lean on the finish. (JR)

Medium red-ruby. Sappy, slightly medicinal aromas of kirsch, violet, cherry pie and minerals. Supple but distinctly cool, with slightly grapey flavors of black cherry, minerals, tobacco and violet firmed by a mineral edge and plenty of acidity. Finishes a bit inky, with limited sweetness. Will this turn drier before it's in bottle?