2012 Volnay Champans

Healthy dark red. Still a hint of leesy reduction to the aromas of dark raspberry and smoke. Powerful and penetrating but youthfully tight, with remarkably sweet dark fruit flavors and a texture of liquid velvet perfectly countered by excellent harmonious acidity. Boasts terrific thrust but for all its power, depth and sucrosité this premier cru seems less massive than the Frémiet. The tannins are firm but suave.

The 2012 Volnay 1er Cru Champans has a generous bouquet of vibrant strawberry and cranberry fruit inter-layered with fine mineralite. The palate is medium-bodied with similar tannins to the Taillepiers, i.e. silky and almost Vosne-like, but here there is a touch more density towards the rounded finish. Drink 2015-2028.

(90% of the way through its malolactic fermentation): Deep red. A bit disturbed and musky on the nose. Then sweet and creamy in the mouth; lower-pitched than the Taillepieds but with a suave, enveloping texture and smooth tannins. Hard to taste now as it's not perfectly pure, but this is a wonderfully round and rich Volnay in the making.