2010 Batard Montrachet

Morey’s 2010 Batard-Montrachet initially comes across as rather subtle and shy, but then blossoms on the mid-palate. Honey, hazelnuts, flowers and sweet spices are some of the many notes that flesh out in the glass. The Batard is all about textural intensity and depth. As good as this is, some slightly angular contours remain, which give the wine a slightly wild, unrestrained personality. I find less finesse here than in Morey’s top premier crus. Anticipated maturity: 2014+. Pierre Morey commented than in his opinion 2010 is one of the great all-time vintages for whites Morey believes the wines will age gracefully because the small berries yielded little juice and superb concentration. On the other hand, Morey thinks the 2011s are early-drinking wines. Based on the 2010s and 2011s I tasted here, it’s hard to disagree with those views. In 2010 Morey began harvesting on September 18, two days earlier than he had initially planned. Like quite a few of his colleagues, Morey told me that the storm that hit the area on September 12 contributed to an accelerated final phase of ripening. The top 2012s were bottled between April and June 2012. Overall, these are very classic wines that are treated to slow elevages. When I visited in July 2012, many of the 2011s were still in the throes of their malolactic fermentations whereas in many other cellars the malos were closer to being finished or completely done. Importers: Martin Scott Wines, Little Neck, NY; tel. (516) 327-0808, The Source, San Francisco, CA; tel. (415) 621-6151, Wines Unlimited New, Orleans, LA; tel. (501) 897-0191, A Becky Wasserman Selection, Le Serbet, various other American importers.