2006 Pluribus Cabernet Sauvignon

Bright dark ruby. Very dark scents of blackberry, cassis, espresso and licorice are lifted by a minty accent. Intensely flavored and deep, displaying a sexy juicy quality to its St. Julien/Pauillac flavors of black cherry, bitter chocolate and licorice. Slightly elevated alcohol here but the wine has the sweetness and depth of flavor--and personality--to support it, not to mention the tangy acidity. This wonderfully lush, rich wine has real spine and structure.

The 2006 Pluribus, like all of these Cabernet Sauvignons, is youthful, with an opaque purple color and a big, sweet nose of blueberry liqueur intermixed with spring flowers and wet rocks. Full-bodied, powerful, and backward, with sweet tannin but formidable structure, this wine needs to be cellared for 4-5 years and drunk over the following 25 years. To reiterate what I have written in the past, Bond is the world-class project of Harlan Estates owner Bill Harlan. It is a simple concept—take 20+-year leases on some of the finest vineyard sites in all of Napa Valley, bring in your own winemaker (the well-known Bob Levy, along with Michel Rolland in the background) and produce these single-vineyard wines, with the stuff considered not good enough culled out and blended together into their second wine, called Matriarch. All of these wines are aged for nearly two years in 100% new French oak and bottled with no fining or filtration. They are all meant for 25 or even possibly 35+ years of aging. There are now five separate vineyards in the Bond portfolio. Quella comes from a 10-acre vineyard in Spring Valley near Howell Mountain, planted on volcanic white ash called tufa. The St. Eden comes from a valley floor vineyard in the Oakville corridor. Melbury is from Pritchard Hill, overlooking Lake Hennessy; Vecina is an east-facing hillside neighbor to Harlan Estate; and Pluribus is a Spring Mountain vineyard overlooking St. Helena. The 2006s, which seemed tannic and unevolved last year, have put on weight, elegance, and for the most part, showed in the upper point ranges I gave them last year from barrel.

Saturated bright ruby. Black fruits, mocha and a whiff of truffle on the rather clenched, slightly porty nose. Plush, sweet and large-scaled, but with almost surprising vinosity giving shape to the flavors of dark berries, coffee, mocha and iron. A huge wine with outstanding palate-staining persistence. The major tannins spread out to saturate every square millimeter of the palate.