2002 Riesling Clos St Hune

The 2002 Riesling Clos Ste-Hune – at under 8,000 bottles the smallest lot ever (even 2003 approached 9,000) – displays chicken stock, quarry dust, musk, wood smoke, and lime on the nose, then deposits minerality as deep, saline, and mysterious as the ocean. It is still very firm in finish for all of its length and one will have to have patience here as well. Plan on enjoying this anytime during the second decade of this new century, but plan on cuisine that will suit its extreme minerality. The Trimbach family continues to render some of the world’s finest Riesling; to uphold the principle that wine of Alsace (unless V.T.) should not taste sweet; to release wines only when they believe those wines say “it’s time”; and to ship 40,000 cases (or 40% of their production) to the United States. Notable developments on the occasion of my recent visit were the enhanced quality of their reserve level wines as well as outstanding performances with Pinot Gris. The wines on which I report below include some of those currently in the marketplace or about to appear, but most of the 2004s and 2005s will not be released for 1-3 more years. By the time early October rains struck in 2005, the team here had harvested everything other than their top Riesling. Yet, even though some of their most striking successes were picked unusually early, the upper-tier Rieslings here seem to have suffered neither dilution nor obscurant botrytis. The Trimbachs clearly rolled with any punches nature administered in 2004 (although by the time they harvested, abundant initial bunches had morphed into low yields), delivering Riesling of startling clarity and concentration that showcases its minerality and acidity. But in view of so much negative rot, they declined to attempt any nobly sweet selections. Importer: Esprit Du Vin French Wine Merchants & Select European Estates, 48 Harbor Park Drive, Port Washington, NY 11050; www.edvwines.com

Slightly fusty on the nose – I think this should be decanted. Lots of evolution and chew but no charm at the moment. All power and extract and introversion but it certainly has the composition to blossom eventually. Not to be rushed, I’d say. Powerful and muscular. Bit of a prize fighter in fact. Jancis Robinson, jancisrobinson.com

The 2002 Riesling Clos Ste-Hune – at under 8,000 bottles the smallest lot ever (even 2003 approached 9,000) – displays chicken stock, quarry dust, musk, wood smoke, and lime on the nose, then deposits minerality as deep, saline, and mysterious as the ocean. It is still very firm in finish for all of its length and one will have to have patience here as well. Plan on enjoying this anytime during the second decade of this new century, but plan on cuisine that will suit its extreme minerality. David Schildknecht, Wine Advocate February 2008