2008 Chablis Blanchots

A Sauvignon-like aura including citrus and herb aromas and a lemony, saline, white pepper- and nettle-infused palate impression – both graced by a hint of Maine blueberry – lend the 2008 Chablis Blanchots a vivacity and cut unusual in a barrel-aged grand cru, yet at the same time there is a faintly oily, rich texture here and a fine sense of underlying density as with nearly all of the wines in the present Laroche collection. This finishes with impressive persistence and a fine combination of richness with lift and sheer refreshment. I would expect it to be worth following for at least 6-8 years, although de la Bourdonnaye and Laroche are convinced such an estimate is ludicrously low – and I hope they’re the ones proved correct! The Languedoc negociant and multiple estate-owner Jean Jean has bought-out Michel Laroche’s domaine, but for now at least, Laroche and winemaker Denis de la Bourdonnaye remain, and the quality and style of their 2008s is entirely consistent with that of other recent vintages. Incidentally, Laroche – a pioneer in France with utilizing screwcap closures – has switched to a saranex liner that de la Bourdonnaye says is designed to and does mitigate tendencies toward reduction that he and his team (and occasionally I) have noted in some past cuvees. Given the Sauvignon-like aspects of many of the 2008s here, I had wondered (prior to learning of this closure change) about continued hints of reduction in a couple of instances here as well. The lees were stirred actively to promote textural richness, which indeed most of these wines impressively exhibit, and there was some light chaptalization of musts that for the most part came in closer to 12% than to 13% potential alcohol. Importer: Canon Wines, Ltd., San Francisco, CA; tel. (415) 394-6454