2007 Chassagne Montrachet Virondot
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Tasting notes
From a steep, rocky section of vines above the Caillerets, the Marc Morey 2007 Chassagne Montrachet En Virondot offers an aromatic and gustatory combination of brine and meat stock mingled with fresh lemon – along with an eventually sense of overt chalkiness – remind me of Chablis. Crystalline mineral aspects seem to shimmer through the citrus, leading to a refreshing and invigorating finish. Some tasters might find this lacking in sweetness of fruit, although there is a Chenin-like note of quince. This is one of Mollard's most interesting wines of the vintage, and should prove fascinating to follow over at least the next 5-6 years. Bernard Mollard began picking September 3 and brought in his crop in short order, in the end chaptalizing no more than half a degree. His wines underwent malolactic conversion already by early Spring – typical at this domaine – and were bottled at one year. The estate’s acreage is supplemented by contracts on five parcels in which they officially act as negociant, but exercise considerable control. “I like the way 2007 respects the terroir,” comments Mollard. “You can well tell the difference from one site to another.” I don’t disagree in general, but a more obvious feature of his 2007 collection – and a very flattering one – is sheer forwardness of ripe fruit, which results in a very strong family resemblance. Importer: Robert Kacher Selections, Washington, DC; tel. (202) 832-9083
Critic scores
Average Score
Jancis Robinson MW
Stephen Tanzer, Vinous
More reviews and scores
Reticent nose hints at musky quinine, citrus peel and menthol. Tightly wound yet less rigid today than the Morgeot, with almost painful intensity accentuated by firm-edged acidity. There's an almost chenin blanc-like wet stone and lanolin quality to go with the peachy fruit. Spreads out nicely on the back end-but this needs five years in the cellar. Sabine Mollard says this wine is similar to the 2004 at the same stage but has more material.
Stinky smoky nose – almost rudely raw on the palate. Still very chewy with some strong green notes. Bone dry and muscular. Very correct and admirable. Medium intensity.
Cloudy following recent batonnage High-pitched grapefruit and floral aromas, with some exotic high notes. Dense, lush and sweet, with enticing mineral and floral notes leavening the wine's texture. A level beyond the foregoing samples in intensity and complexity. Finishes silky and long, with lovely density and cut. This well-drained hillside is favored in a rainy summer like 2007, noted Mollard, who added that the vines' foliage can easily be stressed in drought years.