1961 Bollinger R.D.

Tasted blind and poured from a three-liter bottle, the rich golden straw-colored 1961 Champagne R.D. Extra Brut is stunning. Opulent with aromas of fresh brioche, ripe apricot preserve, and kirsch, it’s full-bodied on the palate, with a pithy texture, a pinpoint mousse, and an unctuous note of grapefruit oil. One of the great older wines I’ve had the chance to try, it’s drinking as though it’s decades younger than its actual age. If you’re lucky enough to enjoy a bottle that’s been stored properly, it’s a game-changing experience. Located in Aÿ, Bollinger was founded in 1829. This year, former cellarmaster Gilles Descôtes passed away after having stepped down from his position in 2022. Denis Bunner, who had worked as Descôtes’ assistant cellarmaster for the past ten years, has taken over the role of his longtime colleague. To mark the 200th anniversary of the house, they have several projects in the works scheduled for completion in 2029, not only to commemorate the occasion but to carry the house into their next chapter. Construction is underway to renovate the Maison Deuil, the long-time private residence on the property, into a 20-room hotel along with a restaurant, which is sure to significantly impact the tiny village. In September of 2023 they attained B Corp Certification, which focuses on social and environmental standards. A signature of the house is that they have their own cooperage on site to build and maintain their barrels. Gael Chaunut took over the position from Denis Saint Arroman as head cooper for the house in December of 2020. All the wood is sourced from their property in the forest of Cuis. As négociants, they purchase 60% their grapes and own 179 hectares of planted vineyards. Sixty percent of their production is dedicated to Pinot Noir, with 25% to Chardonnay and the remainder to Meunier. This year is the second-ever release for the La Côte Aux Enfants, which is the second single-parcel bottling from the house and completes the collection of Pinot Noir Champagnes alongside the PN Series and Vieilles Vignes Françaises. Stylistically, the Vieille Vignes Françaises remains the richest and most powerful wine in the range, with an emphasis on the concentration of its fruit from the ungrafted vines of Clos Saint Jacques.