2005 Essenz

The Feiler’s 2005 Ruster Ausbruch Essenz – also from Chardonnay and Welschriesling – smells of honey, candied grapefruit rind, spiced apple jelly, and caramel. For all of its richness and sweetness, this keeps a beautiful fresh lemon and grapefruit citrus core, remaining lively and calling forth the next self-indulgent sip. A refined, glycerin-rich texture, deep, complex spice, and a nut-brittle sweetness all add to the allure of this sumptuous Ausbruch. It would be no crime to drink this now, although at least two decades of enjoyment can be assumed. I have had a chance to taste only a very few samples from Feiler-Artinger over the past eighteen months, and shall try to catch up with them in the near future. Incidentally, they are switching from cork to screw caps even for the nobly sweet wines that are their greatest claim to fame. Importer: Winemonger, Los Angeles, CA; www.winemonger.com