2004 Costera

Readers looking for an Italian version of Chateauneuf du Pape should check out the 2004 Costera. Made from the Sardinian clone of Grenache called Cannonau, Carignan, and Bovale Sardo, it is a chunky, robust, meaty effort revealing scents of garrigue, kirsch liqueur, white chocolate, pepper, and spice. Full-bodied, with terrific fruit as well as loads of personality, it should be enjoyed over the next several years.