2011 Meursault Genevrieres

The 2011 Meursault 1er Cru Genevrieres comes from the higher reaches of the climat. It has a wonderful bouquet reminiscent of Jean-Francois Coche’s 2005 Genevrieres, exhibiting enthralling delineation and a beguiling floral personality. The palate shimmers with vigor and race on the entry – beautifully integrated oak, an engaging silver thread of acidity and a mineral-rich finish that is paradoxically both elegant and intense. There is a sense of completeness here. A top Meursault for the vintage and one of Pierre-Yves finest 2011s. Drink 2014-2025+ Following last issue’s “amuse bouche,” I could not miss an opportunity to visit Pierre-Yves at his winery in the village of Chassagne to take a look at his 2011s. “I like the 2011s because they give a lot of pleasure when they are young,” he said to me. “But I think they could age very well. The wines are on the ripe side – a bit like 2001 or maybe 2002. But I think it is a complete vintage. Personally, I prefer 2010 which is more on the mineral side, but the 2011s appeal to a wider audience, and in a way, bring people to Burgundy. When the customers come to the estate, they seem to have never heard about the 2011 vintage and so they do not know what to expect. But when they taste them they were quite easy to sell.” Pierre-Yves 2011s do not disappoint, mostly imbued with the delineation and poise we have come to expect from this top-tier producer who demonstrates that you do not necessarily have to own all your vines to create exceptional wines. We briefly discussed his move away from new oak and he admitted that perhaps during his initial vintages he was trying to impress. That is only natural. He has retreated from the cooperage to employ a minimal amount of new wood and things are about to change again. He had just taken delivery of two 11-hectolitre wooden troconic tanks that he will trial with the 2013 vintage, probably on one of the St. Aubin wines such as En Remilly. I cannot wait to taste the results. The Chassagne-Montrachets underwent a longer elevage than the St. Aubins and were bottled two months prior to my visit in July 2013. Importer: Daniel Johnnes Selection, imported by Michael Skurnik, Syosset, NY; tel. (516) 677-9300; also imported by Bertin Henri Selections, Doral, FL; tel. (305) 343-4054

Higher parcel calcaires but quite deep. ‘ Complet .’ Quite smoky on the nose and then great richness on the palate. Fab purity. Not sure I can see Genevrières so clearly on this but it’s a lovely wine. Such persistence. ‘For me Genevrières isn’t inferior to Perrières’, says PY. (JR)

Mute nose hints at ginger. Then rich and spicy in the mouth, with a crushed-stone minerality giving cut to the middle palate. Not a fat style but plenty of intensity here and nicely harmonious. Finishes with a bracing saline quality and a citric firmness.