2005 Roero Arneis

(just bottled)—Medium yellow. The 2005 is an atypically rich Arneis even though it did not undergo malolactic fermentation. Owing to the damp growing season, some of the fruit was botrytised and the wine shows an unusually exotic but attractive set of apricot and tropical fruit flavors, with a lush mouthfeel and a lingering note of sweetness that suggests some residual sugar, although it is totally dry. As always this wine is best consumed within a year after the harvest. A Casa Vinicola Bruno Giacosa bottling.

This offering is slightly above the $20 price required to be considered a “best buy,” but it is such a superb example of Arneis, I had to include it. While the great man, Bruno Giacosa, is renowned for his majestic Barolos and Barbarescos, he also produces excellent Arneis. 2005 is a top vintage for this varietal, producing unusually powerful and rich wines. Giacosa’s 2005 was fermented in stainless steel with its malolactic blocked. It possesses remarkable intensity and richness as well as superb purity, wonderful freshness, a gorgeous, persistent texture, and flowery, honeysuckle, white peach, pear, and apple liqueur-like aromas and flavors. One of the most glorious dry whites made in Italy, it should be consumed over the next year. Jun 2006, www.robertparker.com