2006 Attunga 1865 Shiraz

From vines planted in 1865, the 2006 Attunga 1865 Shiraz is fully mature. It's a full-bodied, dense wine that's moved past a fruit-filled youth into an age of savory richness. There's just a hint of briary fruit remaining, alongside mint, smoke, black olives and roasted meat, all carried on a velvety palate into a long finish. Drink up.

Opaque violet color. High-pitched, finely etched aromas of boysenberry, blackberry, incense and licorice; blacker on the nose than the R shiraz. Deep, juicy and precise on the palate, with luscious flavors of cherry-vanilla, candied dark berries and violet and licorice pastilles. Dense but surprisingly lively, with superb finishing clarity and sweet, floral persistence. There's lots going on already but this is built for the cellar.

The flagship of Kilikanoon is the 2006 Attunga 1865 Shiraz. Thick and rich, it coats the glass with glycerin. It gives up a brooding bouquet of wood smoke, game, truffle, espresso, leather, blueberry, and blackberry leading to a massive, masculine, full-bore Shiraz with dense, spicy fruit, a splendid integration of oak, tannin, and acidity, and a 60-second finish. It merits a decade of cellaring and will reward those with discipline with 25 years of pleasurable drinking from 2016 to 2041. Feb 2009, www.robertparker.com