2004 Pinot Noir Covert Fingers

Bright red-ruby. Pure, pungent aromas of raspberry and spices; very pinot! Densely packed, supple and sweet, with pure red berry, spice and earth flavors. Has a thickness of texture while retaining verve. Finishes with fine, supple tannins and lovely subtle length. Not as complex as Krankl's top syrahs, but this is delicious, and as graceful a pinot as I recall tasting from this producer. My sample showed even more intense raspberry and spice flavors the second day, without any loss of freshness. (I must note, however, that my first two bottles were corked.)

(from the Arita Hills Vineyard in theSanta Rita Hills Bright full ruby. Aromas of black fruits, espresso and smoked meat. Sappy, very intense flavors of black fruits; shows more energy than the 2003Oregonwine despite its strong element of roasted, tarry, chocolatey torrefaction (this is aging in 70% new oak, while the 2003 Omega received 90%). Thick, strong and penetrating. From tiny clusters and berries, and a yield of just over one ton an acre, notes Krankl. Think pinot in theRhone Valley And yet this holds its shape quite nicely. Krankl plans to bottle this in August.

The 462-case 2004 Pinot Noir Covert Fingers is seamless and elegant, with a ripe, layered profile of sweet cassis, forest floor, licorice and ground herbs. Coming all from the cooler climate Arita Hills Vineyard in the Sta. Rita Hills and completely destemmed, aged in 70% new French oak (the rest in 1-3-year-old barrels), never racked, and bottled unfined and unfiltered, it’s a full-bodied, beautiful effort that’s drinking at point. It’s in no danger of falling off a cliff and should continue to shine through 2024, although I see no reason to hold off. eRobertParker.com.July, 2014