1988 Cote Rotie Cote Brune

I tasted the 1988 Côte-Rôtie Côte Brune from Domaine Gentaz-Dervieux after a flight of rather formulaic Chapoutier wines. The Gentaz-Dervieux is on a completely different level. Showing some signs of bricking on the rim, the bouquet is pixelated in clarity, adorned with effervescent scents of red cherries, garrigue, fennel, orange blossom and wilted rose petals. The palate does not stint on fruit intensity, and yet the finesse and grace of this Côte-Rôtie is quite profound. Perfectly balanced, long and tender, the 1988 is a stunning Northern Rhône, and yet the munificent donor said he had experienced better bottles. The mind boggles.