1989 Grange

You might expect a vintage of this age to look more evolved than this, particularly one that is not recognised as a great Grange vintage, and yet it is vibrant and ready for action. 1989 was a very hot year, fully ripe, and it retains an edge of rubber and smoke reduction on the opening notes, needs a good carafe to really open up (which is different from having to carafe for sediment). Once it does, you get straight to cigar box, cinders, soot, blueberries, blackcurrant, raspberry puree, still stunning, with the spice of a hot year. Changed from Grange Hermitage in this year (in the following 1990 vintage, the cork says Grange Hermitage, while the label just says Grange). Peter Gago arrived in this vintage, at a time when the team was still working in a traditional manner, with a continous press used for extraction - a rougher method than today, and yet this is still firing on all cylinders, and is just a fabulous wine.

Mid garnet with a ruby, evolved rim. Balsam, herbs, sappy vitality and complexity on the nose. So sweet and charming and the taste of a seriously old Hermitage. Leather and liquorice with a touch of boulangerie. And masses of sweetness. If I were served this at La Beaugravière, I would be swooning. Shows how long you have to wait for a Grange! Maybe not the most persistent finish but awfully impressive in an old-fashioned way. (JR)

Production: 19,420 cases of 6 Blend: 91% Shiraz/9% Cabernet Sauvignon A full-bodied, youthful, smoky, overripe cassis-scented wine with massive body, and copious quantities of smoky, vanillin-scented new oak, this moderately tannic, juicy, opulent, muscular Grange requires 5-7 years of cellaring. It should last for 20+ years. Note: The production figures shown are for twelve bottle cases unless otherwise noted. Importers: PWG Vintners, Monterey, CA; tel. (408) 655-4848, fax (408) 655-0904