2009 Corton Clos du Roi

The 2009 Corton Clos du Roi is quite deep and intense. It shows terrific intensity in its fruit, along with plenty of structure to support aging. I especially like the way richness of the fruit carries through to the finish. This virile, imposing Burgundy needs a few years in bottle to settle down. The Corton Clos du Roi was made with 100% whole clusters and was aged in 50% new oak, the highest percentage the estate uses. Anticipated maturity: 2019-2029. Etienne de Montille began harvesting on September 5 in 2009 in order to maintain as much freshness as possible. Natural alcohols came in between 12.7% and 13.2% slightly higher than the range de Montille prefers. My sense is that some of the entry-level 2009s could have used a touch more density, but the higher end wines are quite successful across the board. The 2009s were aged on their lees and were not racked until they were prepared for bottling, which began in September 2010, the first time de Montille had bottled 1er Crus before the following harvest. I tasted most of the 2009s from tank, where they were settling before bottling. De Montille did not plan to fine or filter any of the wines in tank. Readers will find additional notes on the estate’s 2008s on www.erobertparker.com. Various American Importers, including: Martin Scott Wines, Little Neck, NY; tel. (516) 327-0808

Reticent. A bit leafy on the palate and quite dry. That leafiness is a shame because the tannins are fine and it finishes fresh. Maybe it will flesh out? (JH)

(100% vendange entier; still in cask and not yet racked; all these grand crus are aging in 50% new oak) Good deep red. Very ripe yet delicate aromas of red fruits, earth and chocolate. Silky-sweet and impressively concentrated, conveying an impression of fullness without weight. Really outrageously perfumed fruit here, with lovely lift. Finishes with a medicinal quality that suggests this very deep wine is holding plenty in reserve. More evidence of how well the Corton hillside did in 2009.