1986 Cheval Blanc
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Finally, the 1986 Cheval Blanc, a vintage that I had not tasted for several years. This was not a renowned growing season for the Right Bank, but this Saint-Émilion bucks the trends to produce one of its most attractive wines. It has a gorgeous bouquet that you could lose yourself in with red berry fruit, quite tertiary at first, and scents of meat juices, fennel, juniper and wilted flowers. This is complex but also has the warmth I normally associate with the 1985s. The palate is medium-bodied with melted tannins, exquisite balance, light sous-bois and black truffle notes that infuse the dark berry fruit towards the persistent finish. It’s like a less extravagant version of the 1985. It’s probably at its peak now, though this bottle suggests it will drink well for many years. (NM)
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More reviews and scores
Tasted at the château, the 1986 Cheval Blanc has a far superior bouquet to the 1996 Cheval Blanc when I tasted them side by side. The aromatics here are far more cohesive and complex, very delineated with expressive Cabernet Franc, hints of cooked meat, cranberry, juniper berries and wilted rose petals - just gorgeous. The palate is beautifully balanced with slightly furry tannin that is offset by a superb seam of acidity. It is nicely structured but not overbearing, leather and truffle filtering through the black fruit and while there is a little austerity on the finish, it is purely complementary. Though 1986 is not known as a Right Bank vintage, the 1986 Cheval Blanc pulled victory out of the bag and at 30 years, it continues to give immense pleasure. Tasted July 2016.
One of the finest 1986s I can remember. Pale/mid ruby. Very rich, sweet and subtle on the nose. So much more luscious than most 1986s. Round and supple. All that tannin has magically melted. Good bordeaux needs a very long time, children. (JR)
Impressively deep crimson with a little evolution at the rim. Particularly true and characteristic of the property (and one of the most approachable of the grand 1986s). Mineral on the nose with gravelly hints of warm stones. Big, ripe though with quite stern tannins underneath. There's something distinctly blackcurrant syrup-like about it (even though there is almost no Cabernet Sauvignon in it). Perhaps very slightly short. (JR)
About the producer
Ch. Cheval Blanc is one the finest producers in Bordeaux. The Saint-Emilion estate’s Cabernet Franc-dominant wines are consistently among the top wines of the vintage.