1978 Cheval Blanc

The 1978 Chateau Cheval Blanc, which was served from magnum, has an endearing and you could almost describe it as "dainty," iron-scented nose with undergrowth and just a speck of Moroccan spice coming through. It is pleasant, even if I noticed how it lost some vigor over the course of 45 minutes. The palate is medium-bodied with tobacco-infused black fruit and a crisp line of acidity, though not a complex Saint Emilion. It is certainly what you might describe as "old school" Claret, because it is unashamedly austere and foursquare, yet you will still find yourself finishing the glass and pouring another. Not a Cheval for the hedonists for sure, but it deserves respect all the same. Tasted March 2015. Jul 2016, www.robertparker.com