1949 Cheval Blanc

The 1949 Cheval Blanc was a négociant-bottling purchased from Sotheby's, though the label was too dirty to discern exactly by whom. But this is a fine example. Taut and linear on the nose, it offers kirsch, blackberry and pencil box aromas, with the Cabernet components perhaps more expressive than the Merlot. Just a whiff of kelp emerges with time. The palate is finely structured with a core of rich yet controlled red fruit. Very harmonious, poised and ripe with hints of espresso toward the finish, this is as good as a couple of château-bottlings that I have drunk over the years. Tasted at the 1940s/1950s dinner at Epure in Hong Kong.

Magnum. We seemed to be drinking this wine on the perfect night for the peak of its evolution. Rich, yet almost volcanic scents. Smooth, polished texture. Not quite so refreshing (nor as deep-coloured) as the Cheval 1950 but very winning with a perfume reminiscent of roses. Wonderfully voluptuous – sort of splits the difference between the 1950 and the 1953. Gamey notes. This magnum came from the same Danish cellar as the 1950, bought four or five years ago. Exceedingly rich. (JR)

An Avery bottling from the cellar of the late Bordeaux expert Edmund Penning-Rowsell. Owing to a torn label, we all thought initially it was the 1948 but it turned out to be 1949. Looks younger than the 1949 above. Deep ruby with some brick. Got better and better. Similar to the château bottled 1949 but thicker, denser and drier. Less generous than the château bottling that preceded it although this wine improved remarkably in the glass. Much better fruit than the Vandermeulen bottling of the 1947. 19 Jun 2004 (JR)