2001 Sori Tildin

The 2001 Sori Tildin is stellar. It shows the typical Tildin pointedness, with gorgeous delineation throughout. The fruit remains fabulously rich and vibrant from start to finish. This is a very refined showing from Angelo Gaja. The 2001 is still quite young and appears to have a bright future. Anticipated maturity: 2013-2026. Angelo Gaja isn’t the talkative type too often these days. Most of the time I am greeted, left alone in a room to taste, and then greeted again before I leave. On this day, though, Gaja started talking about vintages, and in particular the misconception that wines from hot years don’t age. Gaja cited 1961, a warm year in Piedmont, and one of the most legendary at the time. The wines aged just fine, added Gaja. What struck me most, though, was how clear Gaja’s recollection was of events that transpired fifty years ago. I know only one other person in Piedmont who has a similarly sharp memory that goes that far back. What does that have to do with these 2001s? Not much, except that it seemed like an interesting anecdote to share. Importer: Terlato Wines International, Lake Bluff, IL; tel. (847) 604 8900

With its delicate, aromatic nose of flowers, spices, minerals and menthol, the 2001 Sorì Tildìn is less overtly lush than Costa Russi, offering much delineation in its elegant macerated cherry fruit and tar flavors, with greater length, fine tannins and exceptional overall balance. It is always the most nuanced and classic of the Gaja single-vineyard wines.

Deep red-ruby. A bit less exuberant on the nose than the Cos ta Russi, hinting at plum, mocha, chocolate, underbrush and minerals. Very suave on entry, then brooding, classy and young, with far more primary black fruit and licorice flavors than the nose suggests. Less showy today than the Costa Russi but perhaps even longer, with more powerful tannins. This really calls for at least seven or eight years of additional bottle aging. (ST)