1985 Corton Charlemagne

Bonneau de Martray whites from the 1980s generally remain very youthful today, and the 1985 Corton-Charlemagne Grand Cru is if anything still somewhat on the young side for primetime drinking. Unwinding in the glass with aromas of citrus oil, drawn butter, cornmeal, white flowers and iodine, it's medium to full-bodied, taut and layered, with a satiny attack, terrific depth at the core and a long, penetrating, chalky finish.

The 1985 Corton-Charlemagne Grand Cru was my own offering to this year's La Paulée. Maybe I'm biased, but it certainly delivered. Sublime on the nose, it is surprisingly youthful with honeysuckle and hints of kerosene, real Corton-Charlemagne. It just could not come from anywhere else. The palate is wonderfully balanced with a poised yet powerful mid-palate. Complete and harmonious, the finish has a subtle touch of spice and crushed stone. Lovely. Tasted at the La Paulée in Beaune.

Vintages can be a bit hit-or-miss during this decade for the largest landholder of Corton-Charlemagne, and this 1985 is evidence of that. It has a typical nose from the historic hillside, with quince, honeysuckle, lanolin and light praline scents emerging from the glass. Unfortunately, the palate lets the side down, as it is marked by a sense of flatness, though it picks up toward the finish, offering lemongrass and subtle walnut notes. Not bad overall, but I must admit that I expected more.