2006 Corton Charlemagne

Riper on the nose than the 2007, with stone fruit and strong oak notes plus a rather exotic, liqueur-like quality. Sweet, fat and liqueur-like in the mouth, with classic pineapple and mineral flavors accompanied by an almost candied element of butterscotch. Broader than the 2007, and more tannic. One senses the 14.1% alcohol here.

The four barrels of Christophe Roumier’s 2006 Corton-Charlemagne (from the western, En Charlemagne terminus and original white grape sector of this grand cru) completed their malo-lactic transformation in late Spring of the following year, but it was the end of the summer before they finished alcoholic fermentation. Just prior to bottling, this displayed an impressive combination of depth and clarity of flavor with a positively airy, wafting elegance. Apple blossom, honeysuckle, white peach, lime, toasted nuts, and crushed stone all seem to rise from the glass. A tender, soothing texture and continued abundance of floral perfume, put fruits, citrus, and minerals greets the palate, and the long finish manages to remain refreshing and full of lift – not to mention open and accessible – yet deeply layered, the stony mineral elements uniting with a mysteriously sweet and saline savor. “What I really like is a wine that’s very elegant and graceful, but at the same time very rich.” The virtues of his 2006 could not have been better summarized. Despite its youthful generosity, I suspect it will be worthy of at least 8-10 years’ cellaring. Importer: Diageo Chateau and Estate Wines Company, New York, NY; tel. (646) 223 2200