1990 Dominus

This spectacularly complex, rich wine magically combines the finest elements of Napa Valley (strength, ripeness, and full body) with those of Bordeaux (finesse, elegance, and complexity). The opaque dark ruby/purple color suggests considerable intensity, low yields, and great richness. A huge, soaring bouquet offers aromas of cassis, black-cherries, subtle herbs, vanillin, and spices. This full-bodied, voluptuously-textured, super-concentrated, multi-dimensional wine is more flattering and opulent that previous Dominus vintages, which tended to be tannic as well as rich. Although approachable and already complex (I have already consumed three bottles), the magnificent 1990 Dominus should evolve gracefully for 20-30 years. The 1990 is the finest wine Christian Moueix and his partners, Robin Lail and Marci Smith, have produced, although the 1991, which will be released in a year, may even eclipse the 1990! As I have written before, Moueix's minimal interventionist philosophy, which follows such traditional practices as (1) severe crop thinning to guarantee conservative yields, (2) a late harvest in order to obtain physiologically ripe grapes, (3) minimum or no acid adjustments, (4) the avoidance of sterile filtration that eviscerates and denudes a wine, and (5) the refusal to rely on a heavy cosmetic overlay of toasty new oak to flatter wine writers, is resulting in some of the most profound wines made in the New World. If your budget can support it, this is a must purchase!

Deep red-ruby. Knockout, Bordeaux-like aromas of cherry syrup, plum, chocolate, mocha and brown spices, plus a faint vegetal complexity. Sweet, smooth and ripe, if not quite as dense as the extraordinary '91. Excellent acidity gives the flavors lovely clarity. Finishes firmly tannic and very long. Extremely suave wine. Jul 1999, www.vinous.com

Served alongside Monte Bello 1990, this seemed a little simpler but if anything more youthful. Strong sweet cassis fruit and still a little tannin left in reserve. Very respectable indeed. Good to see Jean-Charles Cazes of Ch Lynch Bages impressed by it. May 2015, www.jancisrobinson.com, Drink: 2000-2022