2007 Volnay Champans
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Tasting notes
The 2007 Volnay 1er Cru Champans, which was tasted from an ex-cellar magnum, has an expressive bouquet that is perhaps just a little more advanced than I was anticipating. Yet it is undeniably elegant and poised with a lovely scent of oyster shell that suffuses the red berry fruit, then later, a hint of black truffle. The palate is surfeit with vibrant red berry fruit that has a pastille-like purity, subtle blood orange and dried orange zest notes lining what feels like a powerful finish that fans out with confidence. Is this a Volnay Champans intent upon giving its all in the flush of youth? Whatever, it is a gorgeous Volnay to drink now and over the next decade.
Critic scores
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Jancis Robinson MW
Julia Harding MW, jancisrobinson.com
More reviews and scores
Guillaume d'Angerville describes the 2007 as 'convivial wines' and says his 2007s never really went through a closed phase. From magnum. Lightish garnet. Gentle notes of autumn leaves and undergrowth. Relatively developed on the nose. Perfect for drinking now – silky and fresh with sufficient fruit still in place to balance those more developed flavours. (JH)
Lightly-cooked strawberry, sauteed mushrooms and veal stock are dominant in the d’Angerville 2007 Volnay Champans, with notes of kelp and faint game and manure. As this took on air, tenderness of fruit became more apparent and its slight funkiness faded. It finishes a bit leaner than I anticipated given what went before, but still saliva inducing and satisfying, and in general I have the impression of a wine that has begun to mature quickly though harmoniously and will best be enjoyed over the next 4-6 years. Guillaume d’Angerville and Renaud de Villette had good reason for their upbeat assessment of 2008 quality given the vintage’s travails, notably July hail that ravaged their Champans and parts of their villages and Bourgogne holdings, as well as touching other sites. The hail came too soon in the season, though, to have ill-effects on the eventual health of the fruit, and the team did not start picking until the 27th of September. With the exception of Clos des Ducs and Taillepieds – bottled the week of my April visit, but showing no ill-effects, au contraire – the 2008s were bottled in early March. Importer: Diageo Chateau and Estate Wines Company, New York, NY; tel. (212) 419-1400
Sweet, almost jammy. Quite a fragile nose. Very delicate and very sweet – easy to like already! Very Volnay and perfumed and sweet. Very long with a polished texture. Not the deepest flavoured – just a little superficial but one shouldn't complain about so much pleasure, I suppose... (JR)
About the producer
Marquis d'Angerville is synonymous with the village of Volnay, having long made some of the village’s finest wines. Best known for its Premier Cru monopole vineyard, Clos des Ducs, this estate crafts fine-boned, elegant styles of Pinot Noir – wines that act as standard-bearers for the appellation.