2007 Materium Cabernet Sauvignon

Good full ruby. Sweet, ripe aromas of dark berries, graphite and flowers. Creamy and lush, with an almost confectionery sweetness leavened by exotic floral lift and perfectly integrated acidity. This wine, which comes from a vineyard above Dalla Valle and Showket in the eastern hills of Oakville, has a relatively low 3.5 pH and was harvested in mid-October. Sexy soil tones add complexity. Finishes with broad tannins, excellent grip and length, and lingering sweetness. This is seamless in the way of many 2007s but not at all heavy.

The prodigious 2007 Materium exhibits an even more opaque purple color, and ratchets up the level of intensity and aromatic complexity. Blackberry, black raspberry, blueberry, and cassis aromas intermixed with notes of crushed rocks, spring flowers, and toasty new oak are found in this beauty. Outstanding intensity along with full-bodied power and beautifully integrated acids, tannins, alcohol, and wood suggest this 2007 should hit its peak in 5-7 years, and evolve for three decades or more. www.materium.com

Bright medium ruby. Superripe aromas of dark fruits, chocolate and baking spices; almost port-like. Then sweet and densely packed, even a bit youthfully monolithic. More fruit-driven than the 2006 but less complex today, and not showing the tobacco leaf or creosote notes of the earlier vintage. Firm acidity and big tannins give this plenty of structure for a long life in bottle, and all indications are that this wine will need considerable patience. This is also 15.5% alcohol, but the fruit tone is blacker and the wine appears to have more floral lift.