2009 Moulin a Vent Clos de la Roche

Liger-Belair’s 2009 Moulin-a-Vent La Roche is more impressive from bottle than from barrel (reviewed in issue 190). Creamy in texture yet persistently bright, this complex bottling’s sense of myriad mineral matter mingled with richly ripe, yet fresh, dark berries and concentrated meat stock culminates in a finish of mouthwatering salinity, vibratory intensity, and profound reach. This should be worth following for 8-10 years; though on no account should one miss out on experiencing it in its current state. One has to at least somewhat pity Liger-Belair for having set such an incredible standard in his first year as a Beaujolais vigneron, given the comparisons that will be drawn with his subsequent wines! In the second vintage of his Beaujolais project – for more about which (including vineyard descriptions), consult my report in issue 190 – Thibault Liger-Belair has had an opportunity to show what he and his vines can do when faced with a bit of adversity, although given this young vigneron’s track record with Burgundian Pinot, I would certainly have been shocked if he had dropped the ball. Picking began less than a week later in 2010 than in 2009, and bottling was likely to again take place in August. (I tasted the definitive assemblages.) Since the 2009s from this estate were so auspicious – and are indeed in another league from the excellent 2010s – I have taken the liberty of offering tasting notes from bottle despite having published notes from cask in issue 190. Importer: Vineyard Brands, Birmingham, AL; tel. (205) 980-8802

Cask sample. Dark crimson. Succulent and racy. Sinewy. Very firm. (JR)