1995 Cote Rotie La Mordoree

Lots of millerandage in 95, giving concentrated wines. La Mordorée is a brand name not vineyard name. 500 c/s produced. 12 months in 100% new oak (these days 24 months in new and used). 100% Syrah, 60-year-old vines. Deep garnet and touch of mahogany at the core. Strong notes of forest floor but still has sweet cherry fruit, a little cooked. Certain amount of VA. Dry papery tannins, quite austere though fresh on the palate, a little angular but not drying (yet). Tea leaves. Slightly awkward wine. (JH)

Chapoutier makes no bones about the fact that he prefers his 1996 Cote Roties to his 1995s. Wealthy readers with access to Chapoutier's wines will have fun determining whether the 1995 or 1996 Cote Rotie La Mordoree is the superior wine. Both are terrific examples of Cote Rotie with 20-25 years of evolution. Chapoutier prefers the 1996. The 1995 is a superb wine, but I am not sure the 1996 isn't a point or two better. Both wines possess intensely-saturated black/purple colors, and smoky, black raspberry, coffee, and chocolate-scented noses with black olives thrown in for complexity. The 1996 may have greater length, but that is splitting hairs at this level of quality. Both are medium to full-bodied, rich, extraordinary examples of Cote Rotie that possess power as well as finesse. Both will require cellaring to reveal their personalities. I suspect the 1995 needs 4-5 years of cellaring. It should drink well from 2003-2020. Prospective purchasers must have patience.