1982 Lanessan

A wine that must have been available for a nugatory price back in the day, the 1982 Lanessan is drinking superbly at age 40. Still impressively saturated in hue, it wafts from the glass with aromas of berry fruit, plums, camphor, loamy soil and subtle hints of cigar box. On the palate, it's medium to full-bodied, with a generous core of ripe fruit, succulent acids and fine, chalky tannins that still assert themselves on the finish. It only becomes sweeter and fleshier with time in the decanter and glass.