2010 Capbern Gasqueton

From a case that we bought En Primeur, now down to the last few bottles, and it's at pretty much the perfect moment (something that wasn't true for many of the earlier bottles we opened). Now known as Château Capbern, but with Gasqueton added at the time, this is seriously enjoyable, right now at its peak, full of liqourice and spiced cassis, with the very sightest hints of tertiary truffle and tobacco flavours. 80% oak. It should stay at this level for another 5 or so years.

The 2010 Capbern Gasqueton is a wine that I never tasted en primeur. It has a very intense bouquet with blackberry, tobacco, dried blood and loamy aromas that vie for attention, all served up with impressive delineation. The palate is medium-bodied with grippy tannins, a lovely rondeur here that counterbalances the structure of the vintage. Gentle grip, good body and backbone with plenty of stuffing on the finish, this is an excellent long-term and delicious Saint-Estèphe. Tasted blind at Farr Vintners 10-Year On Bordeaux horizontal.

Deep garnet in color, the 2010 Capbern needs a little coaxing to reveal notes of redcurrant jelly, prunes and baked blackcurrants with hints of black tea, pencil lead, cedar chest and spice cake. Medium to full-bodied, the palate delivers lovely freshness and ripe, grainy tannins, well-framing the elegant red and black fruit preserves, finishing spicy.