2004 Barolo Monfortino Riserva

The 2004 Barolo Riserva Monfortino confirms its place as one of the finest Monfortinos ever made. From magnum, it is so special. The long growing season produced a Monfortino of unusual silkiness, perfume and elegance. In many ways, the 2004 is the first modern Monfortino – the first vintage that was gorgeous right out of the gate, qualities it shares with the 2008 and 2014, also wines from later-ripening vintages. Soaring aromatics and silky tannins give the 2004 so much sheer appeal that recall the 1982. The 2004 has long been one of my favorites, as it is again on this night.

I have been fortunate to taste and drink the 2004 Monfortino many times, going back to the days when the wine was in barrel. Even from the beginning, the 2004 offers striking aromatics, silky fruit and exceptional overall balance, all qualities that remain very much in evidence to this day. At a complete vertical of Monfortino from magnum going back to 1970 last year, the 2004 was one of the very finest wines, which only shows where it stands in the pantheon of Monfortinos. To be sure, vintages such as 1999 and 2002 deliver more power, but when it comes to pure finesse, the 2004 plays in a league of its own. Only the 2008 is similar in style. I imagine the 2004 Monfortino will give readers an utterly spellbinding drinking experience for the next few decades.

The 2004 Monfortino steals the show in this flight. I have always loved the 2004 and that continues to this day. Arguably one of the most sensual, exotic and finessed Monfortinos ever made, the 2004 is all about harmony. Nothing sticks out. Instead, all I want is another taste. Then another…just to revel in the wine’s total seamlessness and profoundness. This is as good as wine gets. Not in Piedmont or Italy, but anywhere. Tasted from magnum.