1987 Barolo Monfortino Riserva

The 1987 Monfortino is another wine that is simply mesmerizing. For many years, 1987 was the insider’s Monfortino, a wine whose beauty was only known by a select few. From magnum, the wine is even more striking. A gorgeous, expressive bouquet melds into delicate, lifted fruit in one of the most sensual wines of the night. Tasted from magnum.

The 1987 Barolo Riserva Monfortino passed without much commentary, but this youthful, fragrant Barolo more than held its own with the more famous wines served alongside it, which is the highest compliment I could bestow on this superb wine.

While many producers have said the 1987 Barolo vintage was average in quality, Conterno enjoyed great success. The 1987 Monfortino is unquestionably the Barolo of the vintage. Its saturated dark color and huge nose of truffles, tar, and sweet tobacco tinged with black-cherry fruit are followed by a wine with gobs of glycerin, amazing power and richness, and a monstrously long, tannic finish. A great wine from a so-so vintage, it should be at its best between 1997-2020. Those of you who love wine loaded with lavish new oak, sweet, crunchy fruit, and squeaky clean, simple flavors should be sure to taste this wine before you decide to buy. Though a fabulous wine, it is not for everybody. Conterno, whose wines I have followed since the mid-sixties, is unquestionably the quintessential traditionalist when it comes to Barolo. No concessions are made to modern day tastes. Consequently, his wines are among the most concentrated, as well as the most rustic and tannic. From time to time there have also been levels of volatile acidity that modern day technocrats would consider obscene, but which actually can add to the wine's complexity and character, up to a point. Because Giovanni Conterno is among the last to bottle his Barolos, I have reviewed his current and upcoming releases, including his 1987 and 1985 luxury cuvees of Barolo called Monfortino. I should note that Conterno's 1989 Barolo Cascina Francia has been bottled and may be released sooner than normal. Importer: Vin Divino, Chicago, IL.