2007 Chianti Classico Riserva Vigneto Rancia

The 2007 Chianti Classico Riserva Rancia is another dazzling wine. This is a vintage of overt, sumptuous fruit and pure sexiness. Despite its richness, the 2007 never loses its sense of structure, but in this vintage the tannins are nearly buried by the huge fruit. Today the 2007 comes across as a hypothetical blend of the 2004 and 2006, with the finesse of the former and the size of the latter. Not a bad combination, to put it mildly. In the glass the wine is alive, vibrant and totally captivating. Anticipated maturity: 2017-2037. I will never forget this once in a lifetime tasting of Felsina’s flagship Chianti Classico Riserva Rancia. What started out as a casual survey of a few older vintages turned into a complete vertical as proprietor Giuseppe Mazzocolin and long-time oenologist Franco Bernabei surprised me with bottle after bottle of fabulous Rancias going back to the inaugural 1983. A few days after this tasting I received a complete lab analysis of all the wines, one of the most valuable pieces of data I have ever seen, and a presentation worthy of serious wine scholarship. The single biggest takeaway from this tasting is the amazing consistency of the wines across all vintages. Considering its modest price, Rancia remains one the most fairly priced, cellar worthy wines in the world. As great as Rancia can be, the straight Riserva makes a fine substitute at about half the price. I learned that lesson again recently at Maialino in New York City, where Wine Director Liz Nicholson served me a fabulous bottle of the 1995.I have to say there is something about the wines of the 1980s and mid-1990s that goes straight to the heart. Giuseppe Mazzocolin describes his early wines from the 1980s as huge challenges to make because he constantly had to convince his vineyard workers to drop fruit, something that was a culture shock and that seemed like an enormous waste of money given the mindset of the time. If present-day vintages develop only half as well readers will be in for a treat as those wines mature. Readers will notice that the early wines from the 1980s were called Vigneto Rancia, rather than simply Rancia, which became the norm beginning in 1990. The wine has been made from the same parcel since the first year. Felsina Chianti Classico Riserva Rancia Key Points: 1. 100% Sangiovese aged in French oak barrels 2. Made from the Rancia vineyard, a high-altitude site in the south of the Chianti Classico appellation 3. Combines power and elegance 4. Aging potential: 20-30 years

The 2007 Chianti Classico Riserva Rancia bursts onto the palate in a big, brooding expression of Sangiovese from Castelnuovo Berardenga. Muscular and dense to the core, the 2007 powers all the way through to the long finish. Hints of smoke, tar, leather and scorched earth emerge over time, but only with great reluctance. In a vintage where so many wines are open, the Rancia comes across as quite stubborn and in need of at least five more years in bottle. That said, it is a standout, not to mention one of the greatest values in fine, age-worthy wine. In a second tasting the 2007 Rancia came across as decidedly more elegant and restrained in style, so it will be interesting to see where this ultimately settles within the context of recent vintages. Today I don't think the 2007 has the elegance of the 2004 nor the power and ageworthiness of the 2006, but we will see.

100% Sangiovese. Oenologist Franco Bernabei. Concentrated ruby starting to mature. Quite catchy, if at first somewhat dusty oak fruit nose. Round fruit rolls over the tongue interrupted by elevated acidity. Good length, though, but no overachiever. (WS)