2010 Barbaresco Valeirano

Good bright red. Complex nose melds dark berries, sage, menthol and licorice. Dense, sappy and wild, showing impressive tension and lively mineral high notes to the extremely backward flavors of dark berries and licorice. If the Starderi is Burgundian, this is frank nebbiolo for purists. Has plenty of buffering material for its tannins, and finishes with excellent spicy, minerally energy and lift.

La Spinetta's 2010 Barbaresco Valeirano is quite open today, which is frankly uncharacteristic of young Valeirano. Dark red cherry, plums, sweet tobacco, licorice and mint waft from the glass in a surprisingly ethereal, perfumed and beautifully layered Barbaresco. Valeirano is usually austere at this stage of its life, but the 2010 appears to be a wine that will drink nicely early, and that is never a bad thing.

Fruit for the 2010 Barbaresco Vigneto Valeirano is harvested at 450 meters above sea level in the Neive township. These conditions shape a radically different character. This wine is precise and sharp with finely etched tones of spice, dark berry and wet earth. The overall structure and power of the wine is super elegant and immediate. You can safely put this bottle away for years. Anticipated maturity: 2016-2035. Giorgio Rivetti has unveiled a stunning line of new wines, and a few surprises as well, from his impeccable winery and tasting room at the foot of the Grinzane Cavour castle. The line of Riserva Barbarescos and Riserva Barolo will only be bottled in magnums in the best vintages. The year 2004 is the inaugural vintage of these special releases. Giorgio purchased a beautiful estate in the Grinzane Cavour estate for making Barolo. His vineyard graces a dome-shaped hill and is planted with 55- to 60-year-old Nebbiolo vines. Importers: Indigenous Selections, Fort Lauderdale, FL; tel. (954) 530-4021; Michael Skurnik Wines, Syosset, NY; tel. (516) 677-9300