2003 Brane Cantenac

65% Cabernet Sauvignon, 30% Merlot and 5% Cabernet Franc. 31.3 hl/ha. Pale red with brick at the rim. Baked nose with perhaps a hint of plum. Sweet and sour on the palate, the tannins chunky and dry on the finish. Slight glow as well. No real finesse but has held up. (JL)

The 2003 Brane-Cantenac comes from an infamously hot vintage when vines found it almost impossible to shut down during the heatwave, particularly on balmy nights. As such, the prune-tinged red berry fruit aromatics feel unsurprisingly smudged, lacking the delineation and freshness of recent vintages. The palate is medium-bodied with distinctly confit -like red fruit, veering into prune-like notes, brown spices and meat juices, quite animally with maybe a bit of Brettanomyces on the finish. The 2003 was scuppered by the growing season. Tasted at the Brane-Cantenac vertical at the château in September 2025.

Medium intensity ruby rose, good depth through the core, baking spices with pomegranate and red cherry, sandalwood and cinnamon as it opens, clear signs of ripeness, and a creamy edge to the fruit with plenty of orange peel freshness. It's good quality, in its drinking window, well balanced. 31.3hl/h yield, harvest September 8 to 25, 70% new French oak for ageing, 3.83ph. Jacques Boissenot consultant, Henri Lurton owner and estate director, Christophe Capdeville technical director.