1928 Brane Cantenac

Just impossible to believe the depth of colour, even knowing it was recorked in 1986. A whisper of tobacco, undergrowth and old books. It doesn't have the depth of the wines of 1940s and 1960s that we are tasting alongside, and yet it is still intact, with a kick of salinity and soy on the finish, and still lifting acidity - a quality that clearly has kept the backbone intact over the years. This is the era of Léonce Récapet, who bought Brane in 1925 (and 50% of Château Margaux), and who died at his desk in 1943. Brane was already doing some château bottling at the time, and if you had bought a bottled from them, you would have seen the same gold label as today. Carafe for sediment just before drinking - and feel free to ignore my 'drink by' date, because this wine has already proved that we know nothing.

Two bottles tasted from the chateau’s cellars, the first fungal and rather out of condition—although certainly drinkable. The second is deep in color like many 1928s, armed with a seductive bouquet of soft, red-berried fruit, moldy orange in an antique vase, bay leaf and thyme. The palate is fully mature of course, but there is still plenty of life in the old dame. Perfect acidity, a filigree texture with great poise, hints of candied orange fading with aeration to more cedar and tertiary flavors, yet it never loses its enchanting delineation and focus. Though not as robust as other 1928s, this is a delightful Margaux in graceful decline. Drink now. Tasted April 2010.

The murky garnet color with only slight amber at the edge is sound. The mushroomy, herb, musky nose cleans up with airing to reveal spicy, clove-like aromas combined with cherry and black fruit scents. Although light-bodied and shallow, the 1928 Brane-Cantenac is still attractive with noticeable tannin in the finish. My guess is that this wine is beginning to dry out. Wine Advocate.December, 1993