1999 Kiedricher Grafenberg Eiswein

For all of its honeyed richness and apricot jamminess, this Eiswein seems to push against the wrong sort of boundary. It seems weighted down by its concentration and not possessed of the acidity necessary for such a wine to really take flight on the palate. In fairness, I tasted this very early on and was not able to retaste it in the second half of 2000.