2005 Command Shiraz
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Tasting notes
Vines planted 1894. They are apparently employing a historian to check the vine-planting records, and are paying him in wine. Rich and flattering with very nice balance. There’s a slight element of ‘dry port’ about it, lots of VA and alcohlol for example, but this is pure Oz. They age it first in new oak and then used oak apparently. You could enjoy this easily already. Apparently the 1986 and 1988 are drinking beautifully now! Unctuous. There’s a bit of salt and umami. (JR)
Critic scores
Average Score
Jancis Robinson MW
Josh Raynolds
More reviews and scores
Elderton’s flagship is the single vineyard Command Shiraz, a wine with serious aging potential, and one with which all other South Australia Shiraz must be compared. The opaque purple/black 2005 Command Shiraz was aged in French and American oak puncheons (500-liter barrels). It offers up a sexy/kinky bouquet of wood smoke, lavender, leather, game, mineral, black raspberry, and blueberry pie. Voluptuous on the palate, complex, and dense, it demands a decade of cellaring after which it should offer hedonists much pleasure through 2035. Elderton’s portfolio includes a number of notable values that are listed at the conclusion of this report. Importer: John Larchet, The Australian Premium Wine Collection; www.eldertonwines.com.au
Inky ruby color. Vibrant raspberry, cherry-vanilla and coconut aromas are complemented by candied licorice and smoky minerals. Pliant, palate-coating red and dark berry preserve flavors are perked up by Asian spices and smoky minerals. Pretty exotic but not over the top, with gentle tannins adding shape and focus to the long, sweet finish. This is downright sexy today.