1993 Dom Perignon

The years after 1990 proved somewhat challenging, more a function of the vintages in question - he didn't make a 1991 or 1994 - than because Geoffroy was a relative novice, although he freely admits that he still had a lot to learn back then. The 1993 divided the room, some appreciating the aged Meursault character behind the deeper colour and developed nose, others worried by oxidation and a lack of harmony on the palate. I was intrigued by the unexpected flavours of iodine and preserved salted lemon which lurked deep within the ensemble. Hard to judge but endlessly fascinating.