1970 Unico

For many years, the 1970 Unico was the greatest Spanish wine that I had ever tasted, and although this was not the same caliber as the previous perfect example, it remains a fabulous wine. It is a blend of 70% Tinto Fino, 20% Cabernet Sauvignon and 10% Merlot and Malbec and aged for ten years in barriques. It has a thrilling Bordeaux-like personality on the nose that is more aloof than other vintages. The Cabernet component in the blend is pronounced, forming the backbone and austerity of this wine. However, you cannot deny its power and its breeding, or indeed its obdurate, masculine finish that demands respect. This is a Unico you have to look up to, perhaps the sister of Chateau Latour in this same year. 94,500 bottles produced. Drink now-2030+. Aug 2012, www.robertparker.com