1989 Barolo Collina Rionda Riserva

The 1989 Barolo Riserva Collina Rionda is a sort of Holy Grail for Barolo lovers. In recent years, prices for the 1989 have gone through the roof, which is not hard to understand. The 1989 Rionda is a reference-point for Piedmont and quite simply one of the greatest wines I have ever tasted, from any region. Production was tiny, less than 3,000 bottles. But every wine has its day. My impression is that at 31 years of age, the 1989 may be starting to fade just a touch. Unlike the 1978, the 1989 was never a powerhouse, but rather a Barolo of nearly indescribable finesse and silkiness, especially for the era in which it was made. Ripe red cherry fruit, kirsch, rose petal and spice all waft from the glass as the 1989 shows off its Musigny-like inner sweetness, perfume and seductiveness. I finished my bottles long ago, but if I still owned the 1989, I would be drinking it now. Especially at a time when so much is uncertain, I find myself often following the advice of a dear friend. “What are you waiting for? Drink the good stuff now.”