2010 Pibran

The 2010 Pibran should have been one of the highlights of this vertical, but unfortunately, it took no fewer than four attempts to find a representative bottle. The results are similar to previous notes. Fresh blackberry and blueberry on the nose are accompanied by hints of pressed violet and cold stone. The palate is medium-bodied with svelte tannin, smooth texture and pointed acidity; just a twist of bitter cherry and graphite appear on the vibrant finish. This is excellent, although readers should perhaps be wary of some bottle variation. Tasted at the Pibran vertical at Château Pichon-Baron.

Quite opulent nose. Hint of creamy oak. Spreads across the palate convincingly. Bone dry. Certainly not flattering but very correct. Should make old bones. (JR)

Good bright ruby-red. Vibrant aromas of black cherry, licorice, minerals, cigar box and cedary oak. Juicy and fine-grained, showing unusual clarity and class for this Pauillac. A lovely balance of sweetness and acidity gives this wine plenty of early personality. Finishes with suave, building tannins and very good energy. Less austere than usual for this bottling, but this has the balance and guts for 10 to 15 years of development in bottle. (A second bottle, which I scored 89 points, was equally rich but less refined, showing notes of game and fresh blood.)