2009 Chablis Les Preuses

The 2009 Chablis Les Preuses comes across as bombastic next to the Vaudesir. Here the fruit is decidedly riper, richer and sweeter, which is felt not just in the flavor profile, but also in the wine's glycerin and weight. The Preuses is a large-scaled wine that desperately needs food to be fully appreciated. Anticipated maturity: 2012-2022. Billaud-Simon is now run by Bernard Billaud, following the exit of his nephew, Samuel Billaud, last year. The 2009 harvest began in late September and ran into early October, quite late by Chablis standards in this vintage. Not surprisingly, the Billaud-Simon 2009s are built on an expression of generous fruit that shows the ripeness and softness of the vintage. The 2009s were bottled beginning in September, 2010. As is quite common, the premier and grand crus saw a longer elevage, here roughly 16-18 months. The last of the grand crus were bottled in May, 2011. I also tasted most of the 2010s from tank and barrel, including several lots of the Petit Chablis and Chablis that had just been racked and were impossible to read. The estate began harvesting the 2010s on October 1st. It was a year in which maturation happened only at the very end of the season. Importer: Langdon Shiverick, Los Angeles, CA; tel. (213) 483-5900

(from vines planted in 1952, according to Bernard Billaud): Pale, bright straw. High-pitched aromas and flavors of white peach, lemon and flowers, with hints of rose petal and hawthorn. Intensely flavored yet quite delicate, with lively lemony acidity giving cut to the middle palate. This shows much more flavor intensity than the Vaudesir and finishes with more structure and thrust. More impressive today than it appeared to be last year from tank: this has firmed up nicely.

Polished and racy. Not quite obviously enough top drawer. Though the finish is impressively long. (JR)